Kristof's Trip to Hebron

NY times columnist in Palestine.  Even though I don't agree with all of the reasoning in this article, it is fantastic to see it in the American media.

No Discernible Line of Thought

I was reminded by a friend that I haven't posted anything in a while.  I guess I have just settled into a routine and gotten acclimated and started to feel too normal here.  I have been busy though so I'll share a bit of that with you.

I found an Arabic tutor.  Her name is Ranad and she is really great.  She was just starting university here when the second Intifada broke out.  It was impossible to attend school so she went to the Chicago and studied architecture.  She stayed for seven years and just returned last year.  Anyway, she is a great teacher and hopefully will be a great friend.  Saturday evening we went to a musical performance sponsored by the Edward Said National Conservatory of Music.  It is a beautiful, new, unique structure in the old city of Ramallah.  They added modern materials and shapes to the old stones of the city.  I don't usually like this combination of modern and ancient but I really loved this place.  The music was played on a roof that had large pieces of metal towering and bending above and around us to aid the acoustics.  The first to perform was a group of classical musicians from Spain, Italy, and France.  They were very enjoyable although I got a laugh out of their decision to play "What Would You Do With a Drunken Sailor" to a group of people living in a landlocked country that requires permits to leave, most of whom practice a religion that prohibits the consumption of alcohol.  The second group was a Palestinian group.  They are known for singing the songs of Sheikh Imam, an Egyptian singer and composer who was famous for his political songs against the ruling elite and in support of the common man.  Much of his music was written from Egyptian prisons where he spent time due to his criticism of the government.  His lyrics are still used today in anti-government street demonstrations in Egypt.  The message of his music resonates throughout the Arab world and is particularly meaningful to the Palestine question.  Here are some translated lyrics from a song he wrote about Palestine in 1974:

"O Palestinians, exile has lasted so long,

That the desert is moaning from the refugees and the victims,

And the land remains nostalgic for the peasants who watered it

Revolution is the goal, and victory shall be our first step"

The first few songs that they played contained very complex language but the later songs were much more accessible to the audience and everyone started joining in by clapping and singing along.  It was really a beautiful evening and had an effect on me for some reason. There were many children there and others could be heard playing in the street below us.  People were on the roofs of nearby buildings, watching and listening. As we arrived at the venue old men had been sitting in a circle outside carrying on some type of discussion. People so enjoyed their musical guests from Europe and really seemed to appreciate these small gestures of international recognition that Palestinians are so often denied.  The evening just felt like this big gift of beauty, happiness, peace, freedom.

I am also really enjoying the women that I work with.  A new woman just started last week.  She is from Gaza and her husband is a Fatah member.  When Hamas took over in Gaza he fled to the West Bank.  She followed him here seven months later.  We have all managed to find time during the day or over ice cream after work to discuss and share our lives as women.  Bikinis, marriage, the difficulties of being a working mother, domestic violence, what does "women's rights" mean?, remembering that we are all living within a culture that shapes us and our views on these things. These conversations have just reinforced for me how much women around the world share and that there is a tremendous amount of strength that we can gather from these shared experiences.  Of course in our conversations there are many things that we disagree about but we have so many issues to discuss because as women we face the same things even if we differ on how we choose to face them.

One more thing - a friend of mine who is in El Salvador this summer, another society that has recently lived through a traumatic conflict, was telling me about how he interacts with people who lost fathers or limbs, or eyeballs in a conflict with a government that is still in power.  He said that the current situation is not exactly Peace, but more like a "hangover".  So he was asking me, in light of a poll that he saw that showed 2/3 of Palestinians supporting "terrorist attacks" on Israel, if I thought that even if a political agreement was reached that removed the settlements, gave Palestinians free access to Jerusalem, set up a Palestinian state with the territorial integrity to flourish, etc., etc. would society still be suffering for generations from the hangover of this 60 years of conflict?  I don't know.  I think it would help that unlike El Salvador or South Africa for instance, that their former enemy would be in another state altogether.  The internal Palestinian fighting is very concerning though.  I think there would be such an exuberance in the air if (biggest IF you have ever seen) there is a just and comprehensive agreement that allows Palestinians to live freely within their land and control their own lives and futures (and too many other details to possibly list).  But, no, I don't think people are going to forget about their Nakhba (catastrophe) of 1948.  How could they?  It is a defining aspect of their history and identity.  No, they will not stop thinking about the land they used to own along the sea in what is now Tel Aviv or the farms they worked in the Galilee.  And they will never forget the indignities and oppression they continue to live with now.  (I'm sorry that these thoughts are so disjointed.  I wasn't planning on writing any of this.  I guess I'll just keep going with it though.)  Many Palestinians have told me that these experiences make them stronger.  They are proud that they continue to live.  They are proud to be the most highly educated society in the Arab world.  They are proud that they have not given up and that they continue to seek freedom and independence.  While dispossession and oppression is central to every negative aspect of life, it is also central to every positive aspect of life.  To marry, to laugh, to fly a kite all mean something different, something more when you are struggling for your ability to exist.

I guess one last thing that I will address here - the fact that 2/3 of Palestinians support "terrorist attacks" on Israel.  To me this has no meaning unless we understand who is doing the defining of "terrorist attacks".  Are they attacks on the Israeli security that is denying shipments of food and fuel into Gaza?  Are they rockets fired out of Gaza into the surrounding Israeli areas?  If it is these two acts then I would put the number of supporters or at least sympathizers at an even higher figure.  Here is why - to Palestinians these attacks are not terrorism. They are a response to a state military apparatus dropping bombs in their neighborhoods where children play and using their position of power to cut off the population of Gaza from the outside world, not to mention food, fuel, and medicine. Sure, maybe the Israeli army doesn't "target" civilians (usually) but they don't care to avoid them either.  Therefore Palestinian militant actions are not seen as acts of terrorism but as acts of war, self-defense, revenge, resistance.  I don't want to give the impression here that 2/3 of Palestinians are participating in violent methods of resistance.  I am just saying that there is no way they are going to label these actions terrorist and outright reject their use while the world continues to give Israel free reign to disregard the lives of Palestinian civilians, not to mention Lebanese!  What I would like to underscore, because I don't think we ever hear about it in the American media, is the strength of the non-violent movement here in Palestine. Nearly everyone participates in some way. Whether it is trying not to buy Israeli-made goods, joining your neighbors in flying kites out the window of your house after a curfew has been put into effect that denies you your right to leave your own home, or participating in one of the protests that occur throughout every week here.  This non-violent movement has somehow stayed alive throughout all these years. This is quite remarkable since besides the occasional favorable court ruling or the delay in Israel's theft of land because people have chained themselves to bulldozers, what has it accomplished?  The outside world is largely ignorant of this extremely active movement, the situation has deteriorated to a level of complete absurdity, and the international community has not yet been willing to join them on the large scales that brought down Apartheid in South Africa.  More thoughts on this later. 

Grandmothers' Stories

Today we had lunch with the Grandmother of the family I am living with.  She lives just below us.  After lunch she told me a part of her story.  Her and her husband had three children, all boys, together.  He was a doctor.  One of only two in their area.  During the periods of conflict, including the 1967 war, her husband was imprisoned several times by Israel.  The charge was that as one of only two doctors in their area that he was providing medical care to wounded soldiers.  Would we expect a doctor not to treat the wounded?  While he was in prison he was tortured with electric shock and burned with cigarettes.  Their oldest son died during one of these times of imprisonment and his wife had to bear this loss alone without her husband.  He was seven years old.  The husband died at the young age of 60 which, wrong or right, the grandmother blames on the stress of imprisonment and torture.

As she finished her story she tried to communicate to me that she accepts the way her life has unfolded but that doesn't diminish the pain it has been filled with, including the current pain at the situation in which her grandchildren are being raised and in which her old friends are coming to the end of their life, not in peace.

One interesting thing about this storytelling session was that when she first spoke she said, "The Jews came and arrested my husband."  Her son corrected her and said, "Mom, don't say Jew.  They are Israelis."  I have noticed this a lot in conversations with people.  The word Israeli is always used.  Not Jew.  Perhaps this is a generational change since the grandmother initially used a religious rather than national descriptor before her son corrected her.  I see this as a recognition that their struggle is against a state and religion is not an accurate or meaningful description of the system they are struggling against.  

In other news - I attended a screening of a new film produced by the Palestinian human rights organization - Al Haq.  You can watch the trailer here.  It tells one woman's story (and she was in the audience), of the ethnic cleansing of the three Latrun villages of Beit Nouba, Imwas, and Yalo in the West Bank.  This was carried out during the 1967 war.  It was quite a horrific story of forced migration.  The woman left her disabled mother behind in their house, expecting to return to her in a few days when the army let them back in.  After living in open fields for a few days with no food to feed their children, her and her husband returned to check on her mother and harvest some food from their fields.  They found her mother's body in a field, her husband was shot and killed in front of her for returning, and she was driven off the land by the Israeli army in a truck full of other women who had returned to their homes to gather more supplies.  The villages were then completely destroyed.  Every building.  And today an Israeli-only camp called "Canada Park" has been created with funds from the Canadian Jewish Community.  There has been an attempt to erase the history of the land.  Israeli school children who visit the park are told that the remnants of foundations of old churches, mosques, and homes are from some ancient village - not Palestinians.  The refugees from these three villages remain extremely active in protesting their expulsion from their land and their denial of return.  They are afraid that their land will be permanently ceded to Israel in the event of a political agreement between the Israeli and Palestinian governments.  The film also showed the work of Israeli organizations that are trying to educate Israeli youth about the truth of Canada Park.

Vacation on Segregation Sea

I don't mean to just keep posting articles.  But here is another example of how this occupation is being carried out.  The link is to a press release from ACRI (Association for Civil Rights in Israel) about the teaming up of the Israeli army and Israeli business owners on the Dead Sea to prevent the "mixing" of Palestinian and Israeli visitors to the popular weekend destination.  They expect to be able to explain away these types of bigoted policies with one word - security.

One Perspective

Very interesting blog posting by a Jewish American activist.

Occupied Time

This article was published on the BBC's website a few days ago.  It is written by an expat living in Ramallah and is a good description of the strangeness of life in this little bubble of freedom within the occupied West Bank.

Tonight we were on our way out for a walk in the city.  A few shops would be opening up although most remain closed all day on Friday.  On our way out we ran into some family guests that were on their way out from the grandmother's house that is below our house.  So we were all called back into the house for more visiting and eating.  The guests were the grandmother's sister, her son, and his family.  They came from Nablus.  The older women sat me down and said that they wanted me to know what has happened here and what their lives are like.  I spoke with the son's wife for quite some time.  She is a university professor in Nablus.  She wanted to know how the US can continue to let them live this way.  Her family is in Gaza and it is impossible for them to see each other now.  She was distraught and confused over Obama's comments about Jerusalem.

And then she started looking at her watch.  She explained that because her husband is a doctor he is able to get a permit to drive his car within the West Bank rather than take taxis everywhere.  But they have to go through the whole process of renewing this permit every 3 months.  And then she explained the clockwatching.  They are only allowed to be on the road with their car until 10pm.  They need to end their visits early enough so that they can make it through all of the checkpoints and get back to Nablus and off the roads before they turn into a pumpkin at 10pm.  She said, "you can see how it is always on top of us."

Obama in Palestine

People here have been avidly following the presidential primaries in the US and Obama made big news here after his speech on June 4th at the American Israel Public Affairs Committee (AIPAC).  In his speech he said "Jerusalem will remain the capital of Israel, and it must remain undivided."  The international community, including the US, does not recognize Jerusalem as the capital of Israel.  Embassies are in Tel Aviv.  The Bush administration response was that this is an incredibly sensitive issue that can only be decided through mutual agreement between Israelis and Palestinians.  Abu Mazan (President Abbas) also came out strongly against this statement by Obama.  

There was a feeling of resigned disappointment when I was discussing the elections with people today.  They thought that Obama would represent something new for America, and therefore for them.  Like me, they thought that he would take a more nuanced and honest approach to the conflict.  When I asked today whether people would prefer Obama or McCain the response was "neither".  I worry that people will look at the next 4-8 years of their and their children's lives as a continuation of the steadily deteriorating situation in which more and more land is lost and any glimmer of hope gets dimmer and dimmer.  I still plan to vote for Obama but he has been an immense disappointment for me since I fell in love with him in 2004.  I will likely never let myself love another politician again - but I guess this is probably a healthy thing.

Work is going well.  I really enjoy the women that I work with.  I visited the family of one of them tonight.  Visiting is way of life here.  It's nice.  Neighbors come by with their kids regularly for tea and chatting.  All generations together enjoying each other.  I had a great time.  The food was amazing and it just kept coming.  They have fruit trees and grape vines outside their house so the grape leaves for ورق دوالي  (stuffed grape leaves) and the fruit plate were very locally supplied.  The ride home was interesting as well.  A friend of my friend's brother drove us around the city for a while before bringing me home.  He was born in America but his Palestinian parents moved the family from Florida to Ramallah 12 years ago - not too long after the Oslo Accords.  The problem is that he has no Palestinian ID card.  He is just a Palestinian American with an expired visa.  Without the Palestinian ID he cannot pass through Israeli military checkpoints without risking being deported and separated from his family, unable to re-enter due to his Palestinianness.  With a checkpoint at both the north and south of Ramallah he is trapped here because he doesn't want to take the chance of being barred entry after he is deported for being caught without proper papers.  Because of this he has not been able to attend University.  It is just one more absurd life in this absurd situation.